Monday, April 2, 2012

Fernandes Guitars Shin Series Vertigo Deluxe Samurai I Electric Guitar

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Fernandes Guitars Shin Series Vertigo Deluxe Samurai I Electric Guitar

  • Seymour Duncan Pickups
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Friday, March 30, 2012

Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban with Bonus CD

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Sunday, March 25, 2012

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Tuesday, February 28, 2012

ESV Journaling Bible (Brown, Flap with Strap)

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The one-and-only Journaling Bible provides the perfect way for you to keep a journal of your spiritual life right inside the Bible that you read and study each day. With covers and formats that look like the finest journals, the Journaling Bible features 2-inch ruled margins for writing observations, reflections, prayers, praises, notes, and journal entries. This unique Bible makes a great gift and lasting keepsake for anyone who values God's Word.

 

  • Size: 6.25" x 7.25"
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  • One-Year Bible Reading Plan
  • Introductions and section headings for each Bible book
  • Black letter text
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  • Free ESV Resources software offer included

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Sunday, January 29, 2012

Reel King RK-6000 Self-Retracting Hose Reel with 65 feet of 1/2-inch Garden Hose

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Sunday, January 22, 2012

Lincoln Lubrication 94552 50' x 1/4" Heavy Duty Grease Reel Assembly

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Monday, January 16, 2012

COXREELS Heavy-Duty Self-Retracting Air/Water Hose Reels

COXREELS Heavy-Duty Self-Retracting Air/Water Hose Reels Review


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Sunday, January 8, 2012

Garden Hoses For Gardening and Other Chores

!: Garden Hoses For Gardening and Other Chores

If you have a big, beautiful home garden, chances are, you have a garden hose. A garden hose also known as a hosepipe is basically a flexible rubber tube that carries water. Although garden hoses may also be made from polyurethane or vinyl, rubber is the most popular material used. Attached to a spigot or a tap, water hoses are useful gardening equipment making watering a lot easier and faster. You can attach a number of things at the end of your garden hoses. Sprinklers and sprayers for example, concentrate or de-concentrate water to one point or over a wider area.

Fashioned from synthetic rubber or durable soft plastic, garden hoses have an internal web of fibers that makes garden hoses flexible and their smooth exteriors make for easy maneuvering between, around, and past trees and other obstacles. And because of their inherent durability, garden hoses can withstand scraping, scratches, even being stepped on without damaging its functional use.

Garden hoses are actually the simplest method of irrigating your garden. But if your garden is quite large, you might benefit from having multiple garden hoses attached end to end. The threads at each end of a typical garden hose easily connect with one another.

Hoses are normally classified into categories depending on usage, toughness, durability, and overall quality of materials used. Garden hoses can be either of three kinds:

Light Duty. Light duty garden hoses are made of lightweight material and can be handled quite easily. You can use a light duty garden hose for fairly light gardening chores or light house cleaning. This type of hose is easy to move around and drag to different places. It can be wrapped around in a spool after use. It is usually made of hard plastic or rubber.

Medium Duty. Medium duty hoses are ideal for general watering purposes. Resistant to kinks and generally durable and flexible, medium duty hoses are good for watering your lawns or washing your car. Most also come with at least a five-year warranty.

Medium duty hoses can give out enough water pressure to take out hardened dirt in hard to reach corners. Although a bit heavy, this is very useful in working with big lawns or gardens.

Heavy Duty. For tough watering chores, use a heavy duty hose. Very kink-resistant, heavy duty hoses come with heavy duty brass octagonal couplings. They're also extremely flexible. Heavy duty hoses can handle all of your typical watering chores such as gardening, car washing, etc. This type is perfect if you use your hose heavily as most heavy duty hoses come with lifetime warranties.

Other types of hoses are available for various uses and purposes. Generally larger and made with materials tougher than garden hose rubber, some of these types of hoses are employed for industrial purposes and are able to handle intense water pressure.

Whether you're a professional gardener or just doing it as a hobby, pick out a good garden hose to have handy. It should serve you well in the garden and for various other chores you might need it for.


Garden Hoses For Gardening and Other Chores

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Thursday, December 29, 2011

Keys to Maintaining an Efficient Compressed Air System

!: Keys to Maintaining an Efficient Compressed Air System

Question:

"What are the keys to maintaining an efficient compressed air system?"

Answer:

Key #1: PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE

"What is the key to maintaining an efficient compressed air system?"   The best reply would have to be -- Preventive Maintenance.

WHAT IS PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE?

According to "Wikipedia": Preventive maintenance (PM) has the following meanings:

"The care and servicing by personnel for the purpose of maintaining equipment and facilities in

satisfactory operating condition by providing for systematic inspection, detection, and correction of incipient failures either before they occur or before they develop into major defects.

Maintenance, including tests, measurements, adjustments, and parts replacement, performed specifically to prevent faults from occurring."

*Source: from Federal Standard 1037C and from MIL-STD-188 and from the Department of Defense Dictionary of Military and Associated Terms

Preventive maintenance activities include partial or complete overhauls at specified periods, oil changes, lubrication and so on. In addition, workers can record equipment information and deterioration so they know to replace or repair worn parts before they cause system failure.

The ideal preventive maintenance program would prevent all equipment failure before it occurs.

BENEFITS OF PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE:

-Improves system reliability and helps keep equipment working and/or extend the life of the equipment.

-Decreases system downtime and actively helps prevent unbudgeted maintenance expenses from cropping up.

-Decreases the cost of having to replace equipment as often.

-Records operational data that can help you troubleshoot an emerging problem (called "Data Trending")

Data trending is the recording of basic operation parameters including pressures, temperatures, and electrical data. For example, a slowly increasing temperature indicates a variety of maintenance requirements including cooler core cleaning, overloading of system and possible mechanical problems. Another example might include slowly decreasing pressure, indicating increased system flow requirements, reduced compressor performance or increased system leakage. Make sure someone is looking at this data on a regular basis. If the data is never reviewed then the benefit is lost.

THE VALUE OF PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE:

To determine how valuable regular air compressor PM is to you and your business... you need to know what your "down-time" is worth. In some operations, down-time can cost hundreds, even thousands of dollars an hour.

There are many misconceptions about preventive maintenance...one being that it costs too much.

This line of thinking says regularly scheduled downtime for maintenance costs more than operating the equipment until repair is absolutely necessary...or until the equipment breaks. This may be true for some components, but don't forget to consider the long-term benefits and savings associated with preventive maintenance that have been previously mentioned.

If regular Preventive Maintenance can help reduce unexpected downtime that results in loss of production, time and materials or the ruining of an expensive plant process--then it is well worth the investment. Not to mention that unscheduled shut-downs can be extended if the correct equipment parts or repair technicians are not readily available.

"How effective is your PM program?"

The answer is: "If your PM program isn't finding problems, it isn't effective."

Key #2: CORRECTIVE MAINTENANCE

Corrective maintenance, usually called "repair", is conducted to get equipment working again

or fix any problems found during Preventive Maintenance.

The primary goal of maintenance is to avoid or reduce the consequences of failure of your compressed air equipment. PM is designed to preserve and restore equipment reliability by replacing worn components before they actually fail.

Key #3: ASSESSING YOUR EQUIPMENT: When to maintain and when to replace.

Here are several factors to consider when assessing your compressed air equipment:

-How critical is your compressed air equipment? If equipment fails, what is the impact on production or safety.

-What is the age & history of your equipment.

Equipment histories will prove that most failures occur during infancy (newly installed or recently overhauled) and old-age (self-explanatory).

How many times has this equipment failed in the past?

-How much do you trust this equipment to perform as designed when scheduled to run?

-Do you need newer technology on your equipment?

Assessing the answers to these questions will help you determine when your older equipment needs fixing or replacing. Preventive Maintenance will help your equipment last longer, run better, and save you loads of money in the long haul.

Key #4: KNOWING YOUR EQUIPMENT WHAT IT NEEDS:

-Every piece of compressed air equipment should come with a set of MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS and some type of operations& parts manual. Your operators should review the equipment information and keep it handy for future reference. If you purchased used equipment and don't have the manuals, contact your equipment distributor for a copy.

- Follow the maintenance guidelines for your equipment.

BASIC PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE CHECK LIST FOR

RECIPROCATING (PISTON) AIR COMPRESSORS:

Before performing any maintenance function, switch main disconnect switch to "off" position to assure no power is entering unit. "Lock Out" or "Tag Out" all sources of power. Be sure all air pressure in unit is relieved. Failure to do this may result in injury or equipment damage.

DAILY MAINTENANCE

1. Check oil level of both compressor and engine if so equipped. Add quality air compressor lubricant as required.

2. Drain moisture from tank by opening tank drain valve located in bottom of tank. Do not open drain valve if tank pressure exceeds 25 PSIG.

3. Stop, Look & Listen for any unusual noise, failure to compress, overheating, vibrations or belt slippage and correct before damage of a serious nature develops.

4. Turn off compressor at the end of each day's operation. Turn off power supply.

WEEKLY MAINTENANCE

1. Clean dust and foreign matter from cylinder head, motor, fan blade, air lines, intercooler and tank.

2. Remove and clean intake air filters.

WARNING

Do not exceed 15 PSIG nozzle pressure when cleaning element parts with compressed air. Do not direct compressed air against human skin. Serious injury could result. Never wash elements in fuel oil, gasoline or flammable solvent.

 3. Check V-belts for tightness. The V-belts must be tight enough to transmit the necessary power to the compressor. Adjust the V-belts as follows:

a. Remove bolts and guard to access compressor drive.

b. Loosen mounting hardware which secures motor to base. Slide motor within slots of base plate to desired position.

c. Check the manufacturer's specifications for correct belt tension. Apply pressure with belt tension checker to one belt at midpoint span. Make further adjustments if necessary.

d. Check the alignment of pulleys. Adjust if necessary.

e. Tighten mounting hardware to secure motor on base.

f. Re-install guard and secure with bolts.

WARNING: Never operate unit without belt guard in place. Removal will expose rotating parts which can cause injury or equipment damage.

 EVERY 90 DAYS OR 500 HOURS MAINTENANCE

1. Change crankcase oil. Use type and grade oil as specified.

2. Check entire system for air leakage around fittings, connections, and gaskets, using an ultrasonic leak detector or using soap solution and brush.

3. Tighten nuts and cap-screws as required.

4. Check and clean compressor valves, replace gasket valve asssembly when worn or damaged.

CAUTION: Valves must be reinstalled in original position. Valve gaskets should be replaced each time valves are serviced.

5. Pull ring on all pressure relief valves to assure proper operation.

 

GENERAL MAINTENANCE NOTES:

 PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE: The pressure relief valve is an automatic pop valve. Each valve is properly adjusted for the maximum pressure permitted by tank specifications and working pressure of the unit on which it is installed. If it should pop, it will be necessary to drain all the air out of the tank in order to reseat properly. Do not readjust.

TANK DRAIN VALVE: Drain valve is located at bottom of tank. Open drain valve daily to drain condensation.

Do not open drain valve if tank pressure exceeds 25 PSIG. The automatic tank drain equipped compressor requires draining manually once a week.

PRESSURE SWITCH: The pressure switch is automatic and will start compressor at low pressure and stop when the maximum pressure is reached. It is adjusted to start and stop compressor at the proper pressure for the unit on which it is installed. Do not readjust.

BELTS: Drive belts must be kept tight enough to prevent slipping. If belts slip or squeak, see V-belt maintenance in preceding section.

CAUTION: If belts are too tight, overload will be put on motor and motor bearings

COMPRESSOR VALVES: If compressor fails to pump air or seems slow in filling up tank, disconnect unit from power source, drain air tank, and remove valves and clean thoroughly, using compressed air and a soft wire brush. After cleaning exceptional care must be taken that all parts are replaced in exactly the same position and all joints must be tight or the compressor will not function properly. When all valves are replaced, perform a timed pump-up test and check to see that it meets factory specifications. Valve gaskets should be replaced each time valves are removed from pump.

Bottom Line: One of the main keys to maintaining an efficient compressed air system has been and still is "Preventive Maintenance."


Keys to Maintaining an Efficient Compressed Air System

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Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Things to Consider When Buying a Snow Blower

!: Things to Consider When Buying a Snow Blower

Snow season is here and it's time to be prepared for clearing driveways and shoveling out cars and taking care of your sidewalks. Maybe this year you've decided its time to get a snow blower to make the job a bit easier. Or, maybe it's time to upgrade from the older one you've been using the past several years. Either way, there are LOTS of snow blowers out there. Which ones are the best and how do you choose? I'm getting a snow blower this year, and I'd like to share with you what I've learned. I use snow blower and snow thrower equivalently -- there is no intended difference in meaning between the two phrases.

The first thing I needed to figure out is what the difference is between single-stage and two-stage snow blowers. I kept thinking it had something to do with the engine and I just couldn't figure out how a single-cycle motor worked. (Really? Yeah, really.)

It made so much more sense once I realized that the difference was in how they moved snow. A single-stage snow blower relies on the action of the auger to blow the snow. The auger is the nasty, cork-screw shaped blade mechanism in the front of the snow thrower. The auger on the single-stage blowers may be metal, metal tipped with rubber, or even completely made of rubber.

So, then, what's a two-stage snow blower? This adds an additional mechanism in the back of the snow thrower called an impeller. This is designed to suck up the snow delivered by the augers and chuck it out the chute.

One key difference between single-stage and two-stage blowers is the speed of the auger. A single-stage blower relies on the auger to blow the snow, so it has to move pretty fast. The result is gearing that trades torque for speed. Consequently, single-stage blowers perform best on dry snow. Two-stage blowers' auger just needs to get the snow moved to the center impeller which is moving at seriously high speed. It both breaks up the packed snow delivered to it from the auger and gets the snow moving up and out the discharge chute really well. So, two-stage blowers will work well for both dry and wet snow.

There are several features you should consider before you buy. These include:

Controls - The complexity and user friendliness of snow blower controls can vary a great deal. Make sure you're comfortable with being able to safely operate the snow thrower before you purchase it. Starting - Gas-powered snow blowers will either have a pull start or an electric start. From what I can tell, this can cost -100 on your more cost effective snow throwers. More expensive two-stage snow blowers may just have this included and the price is harder to figure out. However, electric start does make starting the snow thrower on cold, windy days a much less daunting task. Lights - Some higher end models may come with a built in light. This is convenient, but may not be as good as where a good head lamp on a head harness over your hat. Discharge chute - The chutes can be directed, and may have a control for the height (distance) of the discharge. They may be directly controlled with levers on the chute, or they may be remotely controlled from the back of the blower. Size - Big moves more snow, but may also be harder to turn. Make sure you're comfortable with the height of the handle and your ability to turn it - they can be quite heavy. Clearing paddle - NEVER STICK YOUR HAND INTO THE AUGER, THE IMPELLER, OR THE DISCHAGE CHUTE. I read someplace during my research that over 3000 people are injured every year by sticking their hands in the snow blower. If the snow thrower clogs up, TURN IT OFF, and then use the plastic paddle that came with the blower. Can't find it or it didn't have one? Use a broom stick -- but don't stick your hands in there. Speeds - Self-propelled snow blowers may have only one speed; others may have several. It's nice to have a few speeds, but you really don't need more than five.

I live in Colorado. Almost all my neighbors have snow blowers. I've bought snow throwers for family members who live in the mountains. So, you might be surprised when I start this blog off asking you this simple question: Do you NEED a snow blower? I ask because several of the snow throwers I've bought were used ones that either weren't used or were too much for the original buyers' needs. So, I think it's an important question to ask yourself before you buy. I want you to buy something that is going to bring you satisfaction and get used by YOU -- I don't want you to get something you'll be selling at a garage sale in three years.

I think whether you need a snow blower comes down to a few very key things: how much snow do you get, what type of snow, how much sun you get, how often does it snow, how much real estate you have to clear, and what physical condition are you in. According to the NOAA, Denver gets around 60" of snow a year, usually fairly dry (we get only 15" of precipitation a year). That's five feet. However, the average snowfall per snowfall month is less than 13". Most of our storms are well under that much snow and we have sun shine 70% of the year. So, for me, a light duty snow thrower should be sufficient. However, we do get the odd 36-48" storm. Is it worth spending 0, 00, or even 00 to deal with the big storms we get sometimes three times a year but other years not at all?

I think this is where physical condition comes in. Shoveling snow is definitely hard work. It could be considered aerobic if you stick with it. However, is it good exercise? Probably not the best. You are at a very unnatural position as you lift several pounds of snow. Over and over and over. And then you are tossing it from that position, and sometimes even twisting at the same time. Maybe it's not that good of exercise.

So, I guess the question of should you get a snow blower comes down to how many hours a year do you shovel snow at a rate that is safe for your physical condition. This needs to be balanced against what you can afford and what value you put on your time and health.


Things to Consider When Buying a Snow Blower

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Thursday, November 17, 2011

Getting the Best From Mesh Tarps

!: Getting the Best From Mesh Tarps

There are lots of mesh tarps that you can use and lots of places to find them, but what are they used for? Well, the tarps are coverings used primarily in garden projects to provide shade and offer protection from the heavy winds and rain as well. The material normally used in agricultural applications and you will benefit from them because they let in the correct amount of air and offer light, but protect your plants from debris.

You can get black mesh ones, green ones, tan ones and they are all used in farming predominantly, but also for lawn services and nurseries, at camping grounds, for homeowners to cover a parking area or pool, at mining companies, at sawmills, and at lumber yards among other things.

They are available in all different sizes and you can get various options for heavy duty uses and medium duty. Before you buy your mesh tarp you should look at the percentage of shade it offers to see if it works for your application. You will also have to look at the UV protection it offers along with the metal grommets it has.

You have to attach the mesh tarp onto poles which are then used as a shade port for your car, otherwise you could use ropes to attached the mesh to an area over your plants or pool. You can also use mesh tarp for making a fence which you will stretch between upright poles.

Most of the people who make use of this kind of tarp use it because it is affordable and offers just the right amount of protection and cover. You should look at a wholesaler to get the best prices on tarps and to find the correct sizes that you need. For uses like at a nursery, you should order in bulk to get it cheaper.


Getting the Best From Mesh Tarps

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Monday, November 7, 2011

Roughneck Heavy-Duty Fuel Hose Reel with 3/4in. x 26ft. Hose

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The Roughneck Hose Reel is designed for industrial applications where a longer hose is needed, easily mounting to a wall, ceiling or floor. Rubber/PVC hose for diesel or machine oil only; not for gasoline. Hose (in. x ft.): 3/4 x 26, Reel Capacity (Hose Length ft. x Hose Diameter in.): 26 x 3/4, Pressure (PSI): 220, Hose Included: Yes

  • Reeling brake pin adjusts reeling at desired speed
  • Heavy-duty steel construction with corrosion-resistant powder coating
  • 220 PSI working pressure
  • 3/4in. inlet and outlet
  • Includes 26ft. deliver hose and a 6ft., 3/4in. lead hose with swivel connection on both ends

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Wednesday, November 2, 2011

Pressure Washers From Karcher

!: Pressure Washers From Karcher

Garden pressure or power washers come in to their own for cleaning large, hard surfaces such as garden patios and drives. Karcher are one of the most highly regarded manufacturers of pressure washers, with headquarters in Germany and with world-wide manufacturing, sales and service facilities. The name Karcher has become synonymous for pressure washers.

Karcher pressure washers are a very wide range of over sixty pressure washer models that range from entry level cleaners for home users up to gasoline and petrol powered pressure cleaners for industrial use. This article will look at three of this large range, the Karcher K2.100 for light domestic use, the heavier duty Karcher K3.150 and the Karcher K7.85M for professional users. All are for use with cold water of up to 40°C.

As well as electrical power use, pressure washers are rated by their power and water flow rates at the output end. The maximum pressure is measured in bars and the flow rates usually in liters per minute, and this latter flow rate figure is as important as the pressure rating as a measure of the cleaning effectiveness of the machine.

The Karcher K2.100 is a 1400w machine designed for general purpose use and so is suitable for cleaning patios, drives and garden equipment. It has an operating pressure of 100 bar and a flow rate of 5.5l/min It is a lightweight, un-wheeled machine weighing in at 3.8kg and comes with a 10m electrical cable, 4m output hose and has an input tube for dosing cleaning detergents if they are to be used.

The Karcher K3.150 is a new style heavy duty machine that features a protective bumper. It is a 1600w machine with a maximum pressure of 120 bar and a flow rate of 6.0l/min working through a pressure hose length of 6m. The input water feeds into the machine through a water filter. It is a heavier machine at 14.3kg, and so comes with a pair of large diameter rubber wheels for easier mobility, and it also features a storage compartment for accessories, and comes with a decking and patio cleaning accessory.

The Karcher K7.85M is a very powerful, very well specified washer for professional users, and one that has received good reviews from users. It has an electrical power of 2800w which is used to deliver 9l/min at a maximum water pressure of 160 bar. It comes with a usefully long 12m output pressure hose which can be retracted back onto a integrated storage reel after use, and with twin detergent tanks for changing between cleaning agents when in use, so that for instance, allowing easy switching between car cleaning shampoo and car finish waxes. This Karcher also comes with an adjustable pressure nozzle on the end of the cleaning lance and a wash brush. A heavy power cleaner coming in at 28.5kg so naturally it is a wheeled machine.

On safety notes, do be mindful that these are powerful machines with high pressures close to the output nozzle and as with all garden tools, especially those involving water, do use a safety circuit breaker on the electrical supply, and as their use can involve lengthy exposure to noise do wear ear defenders.

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Thursday, October 27, 2011

Keeping Your Lawn Looking Good

!: Keeping Your Lawn Looking Good

Some things to consider when wanting to improve the appearance of your lawn are where you are located, what type of grass is most prevalent, what products you apply or have been applied to your lawn such as insecticides, fungicides, or herbicides, whether your lawn has been fertilized and how often to you water or irrigate your lawn. Others include if you have re-seeded or recently added sod, have had soil tests done on your lawn, and at what height the lawn is mowed and how often. Problems occurring in your lawn might be too much shade, standing water, insects or pests, weeds, moss, rocks, and heavy traffic. If the problem is weeds, determine what type of weeds invade your lawn and how long have you noticed the problem.

When solving a specific problem to make your lawn more beautiful and healthy, decide whether you want to use a synthetic or an organic solution. Take into consideration past efforts to solve the problem, if there were any.

Grass should be mowed at the highest setting or at 3 inches, and each time the grass is mowed it should be cut down about one third of its height. This will give you a good idea of how often you should mow your lawn. Some warm weather grasses such as Bermuda centipede and bentgrass that grow densely need to be mowed at lower mower settings. Make sure to water your lawn deeply and infrequently. Most lawns do best with one inch of water per week. It is best to water all at once instead of over several days. Of course, how much rain the lawn has received must be taken into consideration too.

Because mulching returns nutrients to the lawn, as well as organic matter, it is preferred to mulch your lawn instead of bagging the grass clippings. Mulch also helps to retain water. Sometimes it may be helpful to bag if you have many weeds in which case you will want to get rid of the weed seeds. If your grass has gotten extra long between mowings, it is better to bag also not to create a messy looking lawn. You want your lawn to be free of thatch. Thatch is caused by the grass roots growing too near the surface. By helping with the decomposition process, mulching helps to deter thatch. Grass clippings decompose very quickly because of their high water content.

You may find there are bumpy spots in your lawn while mowing. They can be leveled. One way is to gradually spread about a one quarter inch layer of topsoil or sand in the low spots. Avoid smothering the grass when you do this. If you are concerned about this, then try lifting up the sod and placing dirt underneath and then replacing the sod back making sure not to disturb too many roots in the process. Water the area after this is done.

Aerating your lawn from time to time is a good thing. It improves growth. Core aeration is preferred over spike because it removes small cores of dirt to ease compaction. Spike aeration can compress some types of soil adding to compaction issues. However, if you have grainy or sandy soil, spike aeration is better to use.

When over seeding your lawn, apply a pre-emergent to prevent germination for weed seed germination and allow for grass seed germination. A newer pre-emergent under the name Tupersan is a selective pre-emergent for this purpose.


Keeping Your Lawn Looking Good

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