Keys to Maintaining an Efficient Compressed Air System

!: Keys to Maintaining an Efficient Compressed Air System

Question:

"What are the keys to maintaining an efficient compressed air system?"

Answer:

Key #1: PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE

"What is the key to maintaining an efficient compressed air system?"   The best reply would have to be -- Preventive Maintenance.

WHAT IS PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE?

According to "Wikipedia": Preventive maintenance (PM) has the following meanings:

"The care and servicing by personnel for the purpose of maintaining equipment and facilities in

satisfactory operating condition by providing for systematic inspection, detection, and correction of incipient failures either before they occur or before they develop into major defects.

Maintenance, including tests, measurements, adjustments, and parts replacement, performed specifically to prevent faults from occurring."

*Source: from Federal Standard 1037C and from MIL-STD-188 and from the Department of Defense Dictionary of Military and Associated Terms

Preventive maintenance activities include partial or complete overhauls at specified periods, oil changes, lubrication and so on. In addition, workers can record equipment information and deterioration so they know to replace or repair worn parts before they cause system failure.

The ideal preventive maintenance program would prevent all equipment failure before it occurs.

BENEFITS OF PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE:

-Improves system reliability and helps keep equipment working and/or extend the life of the equipment.

-Decreases system downtime and actively helps prevent unbudgeted maintenance expenses from cropping up.

-Decreases the cost of having to replace equipment as often.

-Records operational data that can help you troubleshoot an emerging problem (called "Data Trending")

Data trending is the recording of basic operation parameters including pressures, temperatures, and electrical data. For example, a slowly increasing temperature indicates a variety of maintenance requirements including cooler core cleaning, overloading of system and possible mechanical problems. Another example might include slowly decreasing pressure, indicating increased system flow requirements, reduced compressor performance or increased system leakage. Make sure someone is looking at this data on a regular basis. If the data is never reviewed then the benefit is lost.

THE VALUE OF PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE:

To determine how valuable regular air compressor PM is to you and your business... you need to know what your "down-time" is worth. In some operations, down-time can cost hundreds, even thousands of dollars an hour.

There are many misconceptions about preventive maintenance...one being that it costs too much.

This line of thinking says regularly scheduled downtime for maintenance costs more than operating the equipment until repair is absolutely necessary...or until the equipment breaks. This may be true for some components, but don't forget to consider the long-term benefits and savings associated with preventive maintenance that have been previously mentioned.

If regular Preventive Maintenance can help reduce unexpected downtime that results in loss of production, time and materials or the ruining of an expensive plant process--then it is well worth the investment. Not to mention that unscheduled shut-downs can be extended if the correct equipment parts or repair technicians are not readily available.

"How effective is your PM program?"

The answer is: "If your PM program isn't finding problems, it isn't effective."

Key #2: CORRECTIVE MAINTENANCE

Corrective maintenance, usually called "repair", is conducted to get equipment working again

or fix any problems found during Preventive Maintenance.

The primary goal of maintenance is to avoid or reduce the consequences of failure of your compressed air equipment. PM is designed to preserve and restore equipment reliability by replacing worn components before they actually fail.

Key #3: ASSESSING YOUR EQUIPMENT: When to maintain and when to replace.

Here are several factors to consider when assessing your compressed air equipment:

-How critical is your compressed air equipment? If equipment fails, what is the impact on production or safety.

-What is the age & history of your equipment.

Equipment histories will prove that most failures occur during infancy (newly installed or recently overhauled) and old-age (self-explanatory).

How many times has this equipment failed in the past?

-How much do you trust this equipment to perform as designed when scheduled to run?

-Do you need newer technology on your equipment?

Assessing the answers to these questions will help you determine when your older equipment needs fixing or replacing. Preventive Maintenance will help your equipment last longer, run better, and save you loads of money in the long haul.

Key #4: KNOWING YOUR EQUIPMENT WHAT IT NEEDS:

-Every piece of compressed air equipment should come with a set of MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS and some type of operations& parts manual. Your operators should review the equipment information and keep it handy for future reference. If you purchased used equipment and don't have the manuals, contact your equipment distributor for a copy.

- Follow the maintenance guidelines for your equipment.

BASIC PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE CHECK LIST FOR

RECIPROCATING (PISTON) AIR COMPRESSORS:

Before performing any maintenance function, switch main disconnect switch to "off" position to assure no power is entering unit. "Lock Out" or "Tag Out" all sources of power. Be sure all air pressure in unit is relieved. Failure to do this may result in injury or equipment damage.

DAILY MAINTENANCE

1. Check oil level of both compressor and engine if so equipped. Add quality air compressor lubricant as required.

2. Drain moisture from tank by opening tank drain valve located in bottom of tank. Do not open drain valve if tank pressure exceeds 25 PSIG.

3. Stop, Look & Listen for any unusual noise, failure to compress, overheating, vibrations or belt slippage and correct before damage of a serious nature develops.

4. Turn off compressor at the end of each day's operation. Turn off power supply.

WEEKLY MAINTENANCE

1. Clean dust and foreign matter from cylinder head, motor, fan blade, air lines, intercooler and tank.

2. Remove and clean intake air filters.

WARNING

Do not exceed 15 PSIG nozzle pressure when cleaning element parts with compressed air. Do not direct compressed air against human skin. Serious injury could result. Never wash elements in fuel oil, gasoline or flammable solvent.

 3. Check V-belts for tightness. The V-belts must be tight enough to transmit the necessary power to the compressor. Adjust the V-belts as follows:

a. Remove bolts and guard to access compressor drive.

b. Loosen mounting hardware which secures motor to base. Slide motor within slots of base plate to desired position.

c. Check the manufacturer's specifications for correct belt tension. Apply pressure with belt tension checker to one belt at midpoint span. Make further adjustments if necessary.

d. Check the alignment of pulleys. Adjust if necessary.

e. Tighten mounting hardware to secure motor on base.

f. Re-install guard and secure with bolts.

WARNING: Never operate unit without belt guard in place. Removal will expose rotating parts which can cause injury or equipment damage.

 EVERY 90 DAYS OR 500 HOURS MAINTENANCE

1. Change crankcase oil. Use type and grade oil as specified.

2. Check entire system for air leakage around fittings, connections, and gaskets, using an ultrasonic leak detector or using soap solution and brush.

3. Tighten nuts and cap-screws as required.

4. Check and clean compressor valves, replace gasket valve asssembly when worn or damaged.

CAUTION: Valves must be reinstalled in original position. Valve gaskets should be replaced each time valves are serviced.

5. Pull ring on all pressure relief valves to assure proper operation.

 

GENERAL MAINTENANCE NOTES:

 PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE: The pressure relief valve is an automatic pop valve. Each valve is properly adjusted for the maximum pressure permitted by tank specifications and working pressure of the unit on which it is installed. If it should pop, it will be necessary to drain all the air out of the tank in order to reseat properly. Do not readjust.

TANK DRAIN VALVE: Drain valve is located at bottom of tank. Open drain valve daily to drain condensation.

Do not open drain valve if tank pressure exceeds 25 PSIG. The automatic tank drain equipped compressor requires draining manually once a week.

PRESSURE SWITCH: The pressure switch is automatic and will start compressor at low pressure and stop when the maximum pressure is reached. It is adjusted to start and stop compressor at the proper pressure for the unit on which it is installed. Do not readjust.

BELTS: Drive belts must be kept tight enough to prevent slipping. If belts slip or squeak, see V-belt maintenance in preceding section.

CAUTION: If belts are too tight, overload will be put on motor and motor bearings

COMPRESSOR VALVES: If compressor fails to pump air or seems slow in filling up tank, disconnect unit from power source, drain air tank, and remove valves and clean thoroughly, using compressed air and a soft wire brush. After cleaning exceptional care must be taken that all parts are replaced in exactly the same position and all joints must be tight or the compressor will not function properly. When all valves are replaced, perform a timed pump-up test and check to see that it meets factory specifications. Valve gaskets should be replaced each time valves are removed from pump.

Bottom Line: One of the main keys to maintaining an efficient compressed air system has been and still is "Preventive Maintenance."

Keys to Maintaining an Efficient Compressed Air System

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Things to Consider When Buying a Snow Blower

!: Things to Consider When Buying a Snow Blower

Snow season is here and it's time to be prepared for clearing driveways and shoveling out cars and taking care of your sidewalks. Maybe this year you've decided its time to get a snow blower to make the job a bit easier. Or, maybe it's time to upgrade from the older one you've been using the past several years. Either way, there are LOTS of snow blowers out there. Which ones are the best and how do you choose? I'm getting a snow blower this year, and I'd like to share with you what I've learned. I use snow blower and snow thrower equivalently -- there is no intended difference in meaning between the two phrases.

The first thing I needed to figure out is what the difference is between single-stage and two-stage snow blowers. I kept thinking it had something to do with the engine and I just couldn't figure out how a single-cycle motor worked. (Really? Yeah, really.)

It made so much more sense once I realized that the difference was in how they moved snow. A single-stage snow blower relies on the action of the auger to blow the snow. The auger is the nasty, cork-screw shaped blade mechanism in the front of the snow thrower. The auger on the single-stage blowers may be metal, metal tipped with rubber, or even completely made of rubber.

So, then, what's a two-stage snow blower? This adds an additional mechanism in the back of the snow thrower called an impeller. This is designed to suck up the snow delivered by the augers and chuck it out the chute.

One key difference between single-stage and two-stage blowers is the speed of the auger. A single-stage blower relies on the auger to blow the snow, so it has to move pretty fast. The result is gearing that trades torque for speed. Consequently, single-stage blowers perform best on dry snow. Two-stage blowers' auger just needs to get the snow moved to the center impeller which is moving at seriously high speed. It both breaks up the packed snow delivered to it from the auger and gets the snow moving up and out the discharge chute really well. So, two-stage blowers will work well for both dry and wet snow.

There are several features you should consider before you buy. These include:

Controls - The complexity and user friendliness of snow blower controls can vary a great deal. Make sure you're comfortable with being able to safely operate the snow thrower before you purchase it. Starting - Gas-powered snow blowers will either have a pull start or an electric start. From what I can tell, this can cost -100 on your more cost effective snow throwers. More expensive two-stage snow blowers may just have this included and the price is harder to figure out. However, electric start does make starting the snow thrower on cold, windy days a much less daunting task. Lights - Some higher end models may come with a built in light. This is convenient, but may not be as good as where a good head lamp on a head harness over your hat. Discharge chute - The chutes can be directed, and may have a control for the height (distance) of the discharge. They may be directly controlled with levers on the chute, or they may be remotely controlled from the back of the blower. Size - Big moves more snow, but may also be harder to turn. Make sure you're comfortable with the height of the handle and your ability to turn it - they can be quite heavy. Clearing paddle - NEVER STICK YOUR HAND INTO THE AUGER, THE IMPELLER, OR THE DISCHAGE CHUTE. I read someplace during my research that over 3000 people are injured every year by sticking their hands in the snow blower. If the snow thrower clogs up, TURN IT OFF, and then use the plastic paddle that came with the blower. Can't find it or it didn't have one? Use a broom stick -- but don't stick your hands in there. Speeds - Self-propelled snow blowers may have only one speed; others may have several. It's nice to have a few speeds, but you really don't need more than five.

I live in Colorado. Almost all my neighbors have snow blowers. I've bought snow throwers for family members who live in the mountains. So, you might be surprised when I start this blog off asking you this simple question: Do you NEED a snow blower? I ask because several of the snow throwers I've bought were used ones that either weren't used or were too much for the original buyers' needs. So, I think it's an important question to ask yourself before you buy. I want you to buy something that is going to bring you satisfaction and get used by YOU -- I don't want you to get something you'll be selling at a garage sale in three years.

I think whether you need a snow blower comes down to a few very key things: how much snow do you get, what type of snow, how much sun you get, how often does it snow, how much real estate you have to clear, and what physical condition are you in. According to the NOAA, Denver gets around 60" of snow a year, usually fairly dry (we get only 15" of precipitation a year). That's five feet. However, the average snowfall per snowfall month is less than 13". Most of our storms are well under that much snow and we have sun shine 70% of the year. So, for me, a light duty snow thrower should be sufficient. However, we do get the odd 36-48" storm. Is it worth spending 0, 00, or even 00 to deal with the big storms we get sometimes three times a year but other years not at all?

I think this is where physical condition comes in. Shoveling snow is definitely hard work. It could be considered aerobic if you stick with it. However, is it good exercise? Probably not the best. You are at a very unnatural position as you lift several pounds of snow. Over and over and over. And then you are tossing it from that position, and sometimes even twisting at the same time. Maybe it's not that good of exercise.

So, I guess the question of should you get a snow blower comes down to how many hours a year do you shovel snow at a rate that is safe for your physical condition. This needs to be balanced against what you can afford and what value you put on your time and health.

Things to Consider When Buying a Snow Blower

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