Thursday, December 29, 2011

Keys to Maintaining an Efficient Compressed Air System

!: Keys to Maintaining an Efficient Compressed Air System

Question:

"What are the keys to maintaining an efficient compressed air system?"

Answer:

Key #1: PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE

"What is the key to maintaining an efficient compressed air system?"   The best reply would have to be -- Preventive Maintenance.

WHAT IS PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE?

According to "Wikipedia": Preventive maintenance (PM) has the following meanings:

"The care and servicing by personnel for the purpose of maintaining equipment and facilities in

satisfactory operating condition by providing for systematic inspection, detection, and correction of incipient failures either before they occur or before they develop into major defects.

Maintenance, including tests, measurements, adjustments, and parts replacement, performed specifically to prevent faults from occurring."

*Source: from Federal Standard 1037C and from MIL-STD-188 and from the Department of Defense Dictionary of Military and Associated Terms

Preventive maintenance activities include partial or complete overhauls at specified periods, oil changes, lubrication and so on. In addition, workers can record equipment information and deterioration so they know to replace or repair worn parts before they cause system failure.

The ideal preventive maintenance program would prevent all equipment failure before it occurs.

BENEFITS OF PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE:

-Improves system reliability and helps keep equipment working and/or extend the life of the equipment.

-Decreases system downtime and actively helps prevent unbudgeted maintenance expenses from cropping up.

-Decreases the cost of having to replace equipment as often.

-Records operational data that can help you troubleshoot an emerging problem (called "Data Trending")

Data trending is the recording of basic operation parameters including pressures, temperatures, and electrical data. For example, a slowly increasing temperature indicates a variety of maintenance requirements including cooler core cleaning, overloading of system and possible mechanical problems. Another example might include slowly decreasing pressure, indicating increased system flow requirements, reduced compressor performance or increased system leakage. Make sure someone is looking at this data on a regular basis. If the data is never reviewed then the benefit is lost.

THE VALUE OF PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE:

To determine how valuable regular air compressor PM is to you and your business... you need to know what your "down-time" is worth. In some operations, down-time can cost hundreds, even thousands of dollars an hour.

There are many misconceptions about preventive maintenance...one being that it costs too much.

This line of thinking says regularly scheduled downtime for maintenance costs more than operating the equipment until repair is absolutely necessary...or until the equipment breaks. This may be true for some components, but don't forget to consider the long-term benefits and savings associated with preventive maintenance that have been previously mentioned.

If regular Preventive Maintenance can help reduce unexpected downtime that results in loss of production, time and materials or the ruining of an expensive plant process--then it is well worth the investment. Not to mention that unscheduled shut-downs can be extended if the correct equipment parts or repair technicians are not readily available.

"How effective is your PM program?"

The answer is: "If your PM program isn't finding problems, it isn't effective."

Key #2: CORRECTIVE MAINTENANCE

Corrective maintenance, usually called "repair", is conducted to get equipment working again

or fix any problems found during Preventive Maintenance.

The primary goal of maintenance is to avoid or reduce the consequences of failure of your compressed air equipment. PM is designed to preserve and restore equipment reliability by replacing worn components before they actually fail.

Key #3: ASSESSING YOUR EQUIPMENT: When to maintain and when to replace.

Here are several factors to consider when assessing your compressed air equipment:

-How critical is your compressed air equipment? If equipment fails, what is the impact on production or safety.

-What is the age & history of your equipment.

Equipment histories will prove that most failures occur during infancy (newly installed or recently overhauled) and old-age (self-explanatory).

How many times has this equipment failed in the past?

-How much do you trust this equipment to perform as designed when scheduled to run?

-Do you need newer technology on your equipment?

Assessing the answers to these questions will help you determine when your older equipment needs fixing or replacing. Preventive Maintenance will help your equipment last longer, run better, and save you loads of money in the long haul.

Key #4: KNOWING YOUR EQUIPMENT WHAT IT NEEDS:

-Every piece of compressed air equipment should come with a set of MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS and some type of operations& parts manual. Your operators should review the equipment information and keep it handy for future reference. If you purchased used equipment and don't have the manuals, contact your equipment distributor for a copy.

- Follow the maintenance guidelines for your equipment.

BASIC PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE CHECK LIST FOR

RECIPROCATING (PISTON) AIR COMPRESSORS:

Before performing any maintenance function, switch main disconnect switch to "off" position to assure no power is entering unit. "Lock Out" or "Tag Out" all sources of power. Be sure all air pressure in unit is relieved. Failure to do this may result in injury or equipment damage.

DAILY MAINTENANCE

1. Check oil level of both compressor and engine if so equipped. Add quality air compressor lubricant as required.

2. Drain moisture from tank by opening tank drain valve located in bottom of tank. Do not open drain valve if tank pressure exceeds 25 PSIG.

3. Stop, Look & Listen for any unusual noise, failure to compress, overheating, vibrations or belt slippage and correct before damage of a serious nature develops.

4. Turn off compressor at the end of each day's operation. Turn off power supply.

WEEKLY MAINTENANCE

1. Clean dust and foreign matter from cylinder head, motor, fan blade, air lines, intercooler and tank.

2. Remove and clean intake air filters.

WARNING

Do not exceed 15 PSIG nozzle pressure when cleaning element parts with compressed air. Do not direct compressed air against human skin. Serious injury could result. Never wash elements in fuel oil, gasoline or flammable solvent.

 3. Check V-belts for tightness. The V-belts must be tight enough to transmit the necessary power to the compressor. Adjust the V-belts as follows:

a. Remove bolts and guard to access compressor drive.

b. Loosen mounting hardware which secures motor to base. Slide motor within slots of base plate to desired position.

c. Check the manufacturer's specifications for correct belt tension. Apply pressure with belt tension checker to one belt at midpoint span. Make further adjustments if necessary.

d. Check the alignment of pulleys. Adjust if necessary.

e. Tighten mounting hardware to secure motor on base.

f. Re-install guard and secure with bolts.

WARNING: Never operate unit without belt guard in place. Removal will expose rotating parts which can cause injury or equipment damage.

 EVERY 90 DAYS OR 500 HOURS MAINTENANCE

1. Change crankcase oil. Use type and grade oil as specified.

2. Check entire system for air leakage around fittings, connections, and gaskets, using an ultrasonic leak detector or using soap solution and brush.

3. Tighten nuts and cap-screws as required.

4. Check and clean compressor valves, replace gasket valve asssembly when worn or damaged.

CAUTION: Valves must be reinstalled in original position. Valve gaskets should be replaced each time valves are serviced.

5. Pull ring on all pressure relief valves to assure proper operation.

 

GENERAL MAINTENANCE NOTES:

 PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE: The pressure relief valve is an automatic pop valve. Each valve is properly adjusted for the maximum pressure permitted by tank specifications and working pressure of the unit on which it is installed. If it should pop, it will be necessary to drain all the air out of the tank in order to reseat properly. Do not readjust.

TANK DRAIN VALVE: Drain valve is located at bottom of tank. Open drain valve daily to drain condensation.

Do not open drain valve if tank pressure exceeds 25 PSIG. The automatic tank drain equipped compressor requires draining manually once a week.

PRESSURE SWITCH: The pressure switch is automatic and will start compressor at low pressure and stop when the maximum pressure is reached. It is adjusted to start and stop compressor at the proper pressure for the unit on which it is installed. Do not readjust.

BELTS: Drive belts must be kept tight enough to prevent slipping. If belts slip or squeak, see V-belt maintenance in preceding section.

CAUTION: If belts are too tight, overload will be put on motor and motor bearings

COMPRESSOR VALVES: If compressor fails to pump air or seems slow in filling up tank, disconnect unit from power source, drain air tank, and remove valves and clean thoroughly, using compressed air and a soft wire brush. After cleaning exceptional care must be taken that all parts are replaced in exactly the same position and all joints must be tight or the compressor will not function properly. When all valves are replaced, perform a timed pump-up test and check to see that it meets factory specifications. Valve gaskets should be replaced each time valves are removed from pump.

Bottom Line: One of the main keys to maintaining an efficient compressed air system has been and still is "Preventive Maintenance."


Keys to Maintaining an Efficient Compressed Air System

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Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Things to Consider When Buying a Snow Blower

!: Things to Consider When Buying a Snow Blower

Snow season is here and it's time to be prepared for clearing driveways and shoveling out cars and taking care of your sidewalks. Maybe this year you've decided its time to get a snow blower to make the job a bit easier. Or, maybe it's time to upgrade from the older one you've been using the past several years. Either way, there are LOTS of snow blowers out there. Which ones are the best and how do you choose? I'm getting a snow blower this year, and I'd like to share with you what I've learned. I use snow blower and snow thrower equivalently -- there is no intended difference in meaning between the two phrases.

The first thing I needed to figure out is what the difference is between single-stage and two-stage snow blowers. I kept thinking it had something to do with the engine and I just couldn't figure out how a single-cycle motor worked. (Really? Yeah, really.)

It made so much more sense once I realized that the difference was in how they moved snow. A single-stage snow blower relies on the action of the auger to blow the snow. The auger is the nasty, cork-screw shaped blade mechanism in the front of the snow thrower. The auger on the single-stage blowers may be metal, metal tipped with rubber, or even completely made of rubber.

So, then, what's a two-stage snow blower? This adds an additional mechanism in the back of the snow thrower called an impeller. This is designed to suck up the snow delivered by the augers and chuck it out the chute.

One key difference between single-stage and two-stage blowers is the speed of the auger. A single-stage blower relies on the auger to blow the snow, so it has to move pretty fast. The result is gearing that trades torque for speed. Consequently, single-stage blowers perform best on dry snow. Two-stage blowers' auger just needs to get the snow moved to the center impeller which is moving at seriously high speed. It both breaks up the packed snow delivered to it from the auger and gets the snow moving up and out the discharge chute really well. So, two-stage blowers will work well for both dry and wet snow.

There are several features you should consider before you buy. These include:

Controls - The complexity and user friendliness of snow blower controls can vary a great deal. Make sure you're comfortable with being able to safely operate the snow thrower before you purchase it. Starting - Gas-powered snow blowers will either have a pull start or an electric start. From what I can tell, this can cost -100 on your more cost effective snow throwers. More expensive two-stage snow blowers may just have this included and the price is harder to figure out. However, electric start does make starting the snow thrower on cold, windy days a much less daunting task. Lights - Some higher end models may come with a built in light. This is convenient, but may not be as good as where a good head lamp on a head harness over your hat. Discharge chute - The chutes can be directed, and may have a control for the height (distance) of the discharge. They may be directly controlled with levers on the chute, or they may be remotely controlled from the back of the blower. Size - Big moves more snow, but may also be harder to turn. Make sure you're comfortable with the height of the handle and your ability to turn it - they can be quite heavy. Clearing paddle - NEVER STICK YOUR HAND INTO THE AUGER, THE IMPELLER, OR THE DISCHAGE CHUTE. I read someplace during my research that over 3000 people are injured every year by sticking their hands in the snow blower. If the snow thrower clogs up, TURN IT OFF, and then use the plastic paddle that came with the blower. Can't find it or it didn't have one? Use a broom stick -- but don't stick your hands in there. Speeds - Self-propelled snow blowers may have only one speed; others may have several. It's nice to have a few speeds, but you really don't need more than five.

I live in Colorado. Almost all my neighbors have snow blowers. I've bought snow throwers for family members who live in the mountains. So, you might be surprised when I start this blog off asking you this simple question: Do you NEED a snow blower? I ask because several of the snow throwers I've bought were used ones that either weren't used or were too much for the original buyers' needs. So, I think it's an important question to ask yourself before you buy. I want you to buy something that is going to bring you satisfaction and get used by YOU -- I don't want you to get something you'll be selling at a garage sale in three years.

I think whether you need a snow blower comes down to a few very key things: how much snow do you get, what type of snow, how much sun you get, how often does it snow, how much real estate you have to clear, and what physical condition are you in. According to the NOAA, Denver gets around 60" of snow a year, usually fairly dry (we get only 15" of precipitation a year). That's five feet. However, the average snowfall per snowfall month is less than 13". Most of our storms are well under that much snow and we have sun shine 70% of the year. So, for me, a light duty snow thrower should be sufficient. However, we do get the odd 36-48" storm. Is it worth spending 0, 00, or even 00 to deal with the big storms we get sometimes three times a year but other years not at all?

I think this is where physical condition comes in. Shoveling snow is definitely hard work. It could be considered aerobic if you stick with it. However, is it good exercise? Probably not the best. You are at a very unnatural position as you lift several pounds of snow. Over and over and over. And then you are tossing it from that position, and sometimes even twisting at the same time. Maybe it's not that good of exercise.

So, I guess the question of should you get a snow blower comes down to how many hours a year do you shovel snow at a rate that is safe for your physical condition. This needs to be balanced against what you can afford and what value you put on your time and health.


Things to Consider When Buying a Snow Blower

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Thursday, November 17, 2011

Getting the Best From Mesh Tarps

!: Getting the Best From Mesh Tarps

There are lots of mesh tarps that you can use and lots of places to find them, but what are they used for? Well, the tarps are coverings used primarily in garden projects to provide shade and offer protection from the heavy winds and rain as well. The material normally used in agricultural applications and you will benefit from them because they let in the correct amount of air and offer light, but protect your plants from debris.

You can get black mesh ones, green ones, tan ones and they are all used in farming predominantly, but also for lawn services and nurseries, at camping grounds, for homeowners to cover a parking area or pool, at mining companies, at sawmills, and at lumber yards among other things.

They are available in all different sizes and you can get various options for heavy duty uses and medium duty. Before you buy your mesh tarp you should look at the percentage of shade it offers to see if it works for your application. You will also have to look at the UV protection it offers along with the metal grommets it has.

You have to attach the mesh tarp onto poles which are then used as a shade port for your car, otherwise you could use ropes to attached the mesh to an area over your plants or pool. You can also use mesh tarp for making a fence which you will stretch between upright poles.

Most of the people who make use of this kind of tarp use it because it is affordable and offers just the right amount of protection and cover. You should look at a wholesaler to get the best prices on tarps and to find the correct sizes that you need. For uses like at a nursery, you should order in bulk to get it cheaper.


Getting the Best From Mesh Tarps

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Monday, November 7, 2011

Roughneck Heavy-Duty Fuel Hose Reel with 3/4in. x 26ft. Hose

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The Roughneck Hose Reel is designed for industrial applications where a longer hose is needed, easily mounting to a wall, ceiling or floor. Rubber/PVC hose for diesel or machine oil only; not for gasoline. Hose (in. x ft.): 3/4 x 26, Reel Capacity (Hose Length ft. x Hose Diameter in.): 26 x 3/4, Pressure (PSI): 220, Hose Included: Yes

  • Reeling brake pin adjusts reeling at desired speed
  • Heavy-duty steel construction with corrosion-resistant powder coating
  • 220 PSI working pressure
  • 3/4in. inlet and outlet
  • Includes 26ft. deliver hose and a 6ft., 3/4in. lead hose with swivel connection on both ends

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Wednesday, November 2, 2011

Pressure Washers From Karcher

!: Pressure Washers From Karcher

Garden pressure or power washers come in to their own for cleaning large, hard surfaces such as garden patios and drives. Karcher are one of the most highly regarded manufacturers of pressure washers, with headquarters in Germany and with world-wide manufacturing, sales and service facilities. The name Karcher has become synonymous for pressure washers.

Karcher pressure washers are a very wide range of over sixty pressure washer models that range from entry level cleaners for home users up to gasoline and petrol powered pressure cleaners for industrial use. This article will look at three of this large range, the Karcher K2.100 for light domestic use, the heavier duty Karcher K3.150 and the Karcher K7.85M for professional users. All are for use with cold water of up to 40°C.

As well as electrical power use, pressure washers are rated by their power and water flow rates at the output end. The maximum pressure is measured in bars and the flow rates usually in liters per minute, and this latter flow rate figure is as important as the pressure rating as a measure of the cleaning effectiveness of the machine.

The Karcher K2.100 is a 1400w machine designed for general purpose use and so is suitable for cleaning patios, drives and garden equipment. It has an operating pressure of 100 bar and a flow rate of 5.5l/min It is a lightweight, un-wheeled machine weighing in at 3.8kg and comes with a 10m electrical cable, 4m output hose and has an input tube for dosing cleaning detergents if they are to be used.

The Karcher K3.150 is a new style heavy duty machine that features a protective bumper. It is a 1600w machine with a maximum pressure of 120 bar and a flow rate of 6.0l/min working through a pressure hose length of 6m. The input water feeds into the machine through a water filter. It is a heavier machine at 14.3kg, and so comes with a pair of large diameter rubber wheels for easier mobility, and it also features a storage compartment for accessories, and comes with a decking and patio cleaning accessory.

The Karcher K7.85M is a very powerful, very well specified washer for professional users, and one that has received good reviews from users. It has an electrical power of 2800w which is used to deliver 9l/min at a maximum water pressure of 160 bar. It comes with a usefully long 12m output pressure hose which can be retracted back onto a integrated storage reel after use, and with twin detergent tanks for changing between cleaning agents when in use, so that for instance, allowing easy switching between car cleaning shampoo and car finish waxes. This Karcher also comes with an adjustable pressure nozzle on the end of the cleaning lance and a wash brush. A heavy power cleaner coming in at 28.5kg so naturally it is a wheeled machine.

On safety notes, do be mindful that these are powerful machines with high pressures close to the output nozzle and as with all garden tools, especially those involving water, do use a safety circuit breaker on the electrical supply, and as their use can involve lengthy exposure to noise do wear ear defenders.

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Thursday, October 27, 2011

Keeping Your Lawn Looking Good

!: Keeping Your Lawn Looking Good

Some things to consider when wanting to improve the appearance of your lawn are where you are located, what type of grass is most prevalent, what products you apply or have been applied to your lawn such as insecticides, fungicides, or herbicides, whether your lawn has been fertilized and how often to you water or irrigate your lawn. Others include if you have re-seeded or recently added sod, have had soil tests done on your lawn, and at what height the lawn is mowed and how often. Problems occurring in your lawn might be too much shade, standing water, insects or pests, weeds, moss, rocks, and heavy traffic. If the problem is weeds, determine what type of weeds invade your lawn and how long have you noticed the problem.

When solving a specific problem to make your lawn more beautiful and healthy, decide whether you want to use a synthetic or an organic solution. Take into consideration past efforts to solve the problem, if there were any.

Grass should be mowed at the highest setting or at 3 inches, and each time the grass is mowed it should be cut down about one third of its height. This will give you a good idea of how often you should mow your lawn. Some warm weather grasses such as Bermuda centipede and bentgrass that grow densely need to be mowed at lower mower settings. Make sure to water your lawn deeply and infrequently. Most lawns do best with one inch of water per week. It is best to water all at once instead of over several days. Of course, how much rain the lawn has received must be taken into consideration too.

Because mulching returns nutrients to the lawn, as well as organic matter, it is preferred to mulch your lawn instead of bagging the grass clippings. Mulch also helps to retain water. Sometimes it may be helpful to bag if you have many weeds in which case you will want to get rid of the weed seeds. If your grass has gotten extra long between mowings, it is better to bag also not to create a messy looking lawn. You want your lawn to be free of thatch. Thatch is caused by the grass roots growing too near the surface. By helping with the decomposition process, mulching helps to deter thatch. Grass clippings decompose very quickly because of their high water content.

You may find there are bumpy spots in your lawn while mowing. They can be leveled. One way is to gradually spread about a one quarter inch layer of topsoil or sand in the low spots. Avoid smothering the grass when you do this. If you are concerned about this, then try lifting up the sod and placing dirt underneath and then replacing the sod back making sure not to disturb too many roots in the process. Water the area after this is done.

Aerating your lawn from time to time is a good thing. It improves growth. Core aeration is preferred over spike because it removes small cores of dirt to ease compaction. Spike aeration can compress some types of soil adding to compaction issues. However, if you have grainy or sandy soil, spike aeration is better to use.

When over seeding your lawn, apply a pre-emergent to prevent germination for weed seed germination and allow for grass seed germination. A newer pre-emergent under the name Tupersan is a selective pre-emergent for this purpose.


Keeping Your Lawn Looking Good

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Monday, October 24, 2011

All About Garden Cart Wheels

!: All About Garden Cart Wheels

Garden Cart Wheels are an essential part of a gardening cart. The garden wheels are what makes pushing the card easy or difficult. They come is many different styles for many different carts.

The material of the wheels themselves are available in hard rubber, rubber and plastic materials to name a few. Cart wheels range in prices from fifteen dollars all the way to fifty dollars per wheel. Depending on the amount of money that is desired to be spent, will define the type of material one chooses to buy.

Plastic tires are the cheapest to purchase. They are durable and inexpensive to buy. Plastic is also light weight, making the wheelbarrow as a whole easier to maneuver. They can sustain rolling over rock and gravel very easily with little to no damage.

Hard rubber is another option. It is cost effective and light weight. It is made onto the rim and it does not need to be inflated with air. One will need to find a specific size to fit their cart. Like the plastic wheels, this type of material tires can also take allot of heavy duty usage before they begin to wear down.

Rubber is another way to go. The assembly also requires a tube on the interior of the tire. They are not as durable as plastic and hard rubber. There is a chance of puncturing the tire and it going flat. They vary in price. They can be purchased for twenty dollars per tire all the way to fifty dollars per tire.

The wheels themselves may be purchased online. They can also be found in home and gardening stores as well as some department stores. Sometimes they may be seen in hardware stores. Most places offer different types of warranties on the wheels.

When shopping for garden cart wheels it is essential to know the size of the wheel that is required to fit on the garden cart itself. They vary in sizes. The rims that the wheels go on for the hard rubber and rubber tires can be anywhere from ten inches in diameter and up. However the plastic wheels typically do not require a rim, so one would need to get the size of a tire that is desired. The larger the tire is, the easier it is to haul garden materials such as dirt, shovels, flowers or even pesky tree limbs that are in the way.


All About Garden Cart Wheels

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Sunday, October 16, 2011

The Plant You Can Grow to Organically Repel Mosquitoes

!: The Plant You Can Grow to Organically Repel Mosquitoes

I don't know anyone on this planet that enjoys the company of mosquitoes. They are definitely one of the most revolting vermin this world has to offer; existing only to suck blood from healthy bodied people and animals and spreading vile diseases such as Malaria and the West Nile Virus. As summer heat warms dirty, standing water patches in bogs, swamps, and yes, backyards, mosquitoes grow and take hold in new ecosystems, driven by nature's instilled desire to breed, bite, and "bug" other inhabitants. New ways of controlling burgeoning mosquito populations are continuously researched, and new chemical mixtures and sprays rush to supermarket shelves, hoping to do the deed. A study has shown that mosquitoes are repelled naturally by a plant that is easily grown and cared for, and that will please your neighborhoods feline population as well: catnip.

Researchers in Iowa, undoubtedly spurred on by the rise of cases of the West Nile Virus in the United States, researched and tested several plant varieties, hoping to find a safer alternative to the active ingredient in many commercial mosquito repellents, DEET. DEET has been shown to cause brain-cell death and behavior changes in laboratory animals, and poses these risks and others when used to protect young children from mosquitoes. While DEET is no longer being manufactured, it still exists in small quantities in insect repellant sprays that are still sold. A head research scientist involved in studies at the University of Iowa found through extensive testing that the essential oil found in catnip, nepetalactone, is nearly ten times more effective at repelling mosquitoes than the toxic chemical DEET. This study also found that catnip oil repelled cockroaches as well, yet another of our world's least appealing insects. Though testing has surely shown that mosquitoes and roaches are repelled by catnip, researchers aren't sure why, but assume it must cause some sort of irritation to the vermin, if only that they don't enjoy its smell.

The same oil that causes roaches and mosquitoes to flee, nepetalactone, causes at least two thirds of the feline population to flip their lid. Catnip is extremely easy to grow, both indoors and outdoors, whether from a seed or a start. Catnip does require adequate, but not constant, sun, and only minimal watering is needed. Keep your hose on its hose reel (especially if growing inside!) and simply use your watering can to water the crop about once a week. You'll be entertaining your cats and bidding adieu to pesky mosquitoes and roaches in no time!


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Wednesday, April 20, 2011

5 Tips For Buying A Garden Hose

!: 5 Tips For Buying A Garden Hose

Every home in America eventually will find many uses for the good old garden hose. Before you purchase one however, consider a few of these tips.
1. Decide what length garden hose is right. Hoses come in 25 foot increments. How large is your yard? For small yards, a 25 footer may be all you need. Keep in mind though that they longer the hose, the lower the pressure will be when the water finally reaches the end. If you have front and back yard spigots, consider two 25 foot hoses, one for front and back.
Another question to consider is: how far from the water supply is your garden? If your garden is at the end of your back yard and the only spigot you have is in the front of the house, a 100 foot hose might be the only option. Keep in mind that hoses link together easily so an additional 25 feet in length is achieved simply by link another hose to the end.
2. How much do you want to spend? Like everything else, you do get what you pay for in a garden hose. Hoses can vary widely in price. Expect to spend about -30 for a good quality, multi-ply 50-foot hose. Prices may be higher for top-of-the-line, durable flat garden hoses.
3. Don't buy a cheap garden hose. You'll regret it later. Poor quality hoses have a very short life expectancy and are prone to kink up when in use. Hoses are constructed from one to six plies. A 6-ply garden hose will last along time as long as it is properly stored in the winter. In the long run, a quality hose will be your least expensive option.
4. Check to see if the hose you would like to purchase carries a good warranty. Most reputable companies will guarantee their garden hoses from leaking or cracking for a reasonable amount of time.
5. You may want to seriously consider purchasing
Accessories such as a sturdy garden hose reel. There is nothing worse than having to wrestle with your hose every time you use it. A garden hose reel will make things much easier when its time to call it a day and clean up. Simply wind it up and store it in the garage or shed.

5 Tips For Buying A Garden Hose

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Saturday, April 9, 2011

Yard Butler HT-2EZ 2-Wheeled Garden Hose Truck with 200-Foot Hose Capacity

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Sunday, April 3, 2011

Liberty Garden Products 670 Decorative Anti-Rust Cast Aluminum Wall-Mounted Garden Hose Butler/Hanger with 125-Foot Capacity, Antique Patina Finish

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Tuesday, March 22, 2011

Ace Heavy Duty Boat & Camper Hose

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Ace Heavy Duty Boat & Camper Hose Inner Core Made With Medical Grade Vinyl Drinking Water Safe Heavy-duty Nylon Reinforcement Nickel Plated Couplings White Color Lifetime Warranty Carded Discovery Nbr, Sup, Hwu 1/2 X 50 All items sold new in original packaging

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Friday, March 18, 2011

Rapid Reel Wall Mount Garden Hose Reel Model #1041-GH

!: Shop Rapid Reel Wall Mount Garden Hose Reel Model #1041-GH Decide Now


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New in Spring 2009. Rapid Reel Model 1041-GH Wall Mounted Garden Hose Reel. Constructed of diecast aluminum, and painted in an attractive bronze powder coat finish which looks great with many finishes. This versatile model can be mounted either parallel, or perpendicular to the wall. Includes heavy-duty, full-flow brass swivel, rubber inlet hose, and mounting hardware. The hose reel can be set up for either right hand or left hand operation. Backed by our industry leading 10YR Warranty, and unparalleled customer service.

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Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Choosing the Best Wall Mounted Hose Reel

!: Choosing the Best Wall Mounted Hose Reel

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Buying a garden reel is the best choice as it is a handy way of keeping the garden hose from getting tangled or damaged when not in use. Probably you have walked through Hardware stores and checked out some few sites on the internet and are still a bit confused about what type you should buy and where are you going to position it. Here are some of the types that you might want to consider:

Wall Mount 3-in-1 200ft Hose Reel

If you want flexibility and strength, this is the right choice for you. This is created to be three reels in one, it is all purpose type where you can choose to mount the reel to a wall, lawn, anchor it on the wall or add the rubbers to have a non-skid floor mount. Not only is this wall mount hose reel versatile, but also it is made of a very tough steel.

It is very dependable and durable.

Multi-purpose stainless steel reel

This is the reel deal. A wall mount hose reel is made out of stainless steel material. This heavy-duty wall mounted reel will also allow you to anchors lawn or turf, or add the rubber for a non-skid floor mount.

Decorative Wall Mount Garden Reel

Want a classy look? This Decorative Wall Mounted Reels is made of all Aluminum non-rust with brass plumbing fixtures and a very durable powder unique coating. You can secure this to any home walls and can withstand up to more than 125 feet of hose that is easily pulled out for use, and then retracted when done.

Multi-purpose 4 in 1 Hose Reel

Do it all type. It combines four great features in one heavy duty cart, Multi-Purpose '4-in-1′Hoses and Two-Wheel Cart meets all your hose reel requirements. This hose reel easily changes from a two wheel cart to a wall-mounted reels. Or you can anchor the reels to lawn or turf, name it you got it. The hoses comes with rubber boots for a non-skid floor mount too.

Not only this hose reel adaptable, but ultimately it's very tough. This reels are made of steel with an industrial excellent powder coat finish.

The hose reel holds up to 200 feet of hose and it keeps your hose neat and ready to use. You'll definitely enjoy durability, reliability, flexibility and ease in this cart.


Choosing the Best Wall Mounted Hose Reel

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Friday, March 4, 2011

20 Metre Auto Rewind Wall Mounted Retractable Garden Water Hose Reel

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